El Potrero Chico - Rock Climbing in Hidalgo, Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Ethics
El Potrero Chico - Rock Climbing - Spadout.com

I live in Estes Park, CO and climb primarily trad, alpine routes here.  I am a strong believer that the routes should stay this way untouched by bolts.  I am opened minded enough to understand that bolts have there advantages and are appropriate in numerous locations including El Potrero Chico.  I would encourage you not to question the ethics used here before you have experienced the climbing here.

Ethics are unique in El Potrero Chico.  If you are from Yosemite I would recommend coming here with an open mind.  Bolting everything is standard practice here.  Having your entire rack be fifteen quickdraws for two thousand feet is a pretty neat experience. 

The rock is questionable at times in El Potrero Chico and placing trad gear the entire way would be exciting to say the least.  There are also numerous advantages to the bolting tactics.  Bailing is easy and the walls are not scattered with huge collections of multi-colored slings (often found on trad walls).  You can push your limits extremely hard and falling is acceptable.  I have taken hundreds of falls in El Potrero Chico and never obtained any serious injuries.

Finding your route is extremely easy because the name of a given route is often conservatively written at the base of the climb.  This is very useful when a wall has fifty plus climbs scattered along its walls.

These ethics are easy to complain about when you live in a world of solid granite cracks with a rescue team and a hospital a close distance away.  Even as a trad climber I love El Potrero Chico.  I can honestly say some of my best climbing days were spent here I defiantly plan to return soon. 

 

 
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